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A bike weight question...
ManThatCanTri
Posts: 44
in General Chat
Afternoon all,
What is the heaviest part of a bike relative to the rest and therefore which part would you focus on to save weight?
Is it frame, cranks/cassette, bars, shifters etc?
I have upgraded wheels as everyone says they're the first thing to do but if looking at getting a tri frame (i have road bike with aero clip-ons at the moment) do i go for extra money and a carbon frame with perhaps lower spec components or a non-carbon aero frame with high spec light components?
What's the weight difference between a carbon and non-carbon frame?
I bought a new basic SRAM cassette for my new rear wheel and it felt very heavy so wondering whether carbon components would make a significant difference?
Thanks
ps. What's the address for bridgtown cycles and do I need an appointment?
What is the heaviest part of a bike relative to the rest and therefore which part would you focus on to save weight?
Is it frame, cranks/cassette, bars, shifters etc?
I have upgraded wheels as everyone says they're the first thing to do but if looking at getting a tri frame (i have road bike with aero clip-ons at the moment) do i go for extra money and a carbon frame with perhaps lower spec components or a non-carbon aero frame with high spec light components?
What's the weight difference between a carbon and non-carbon frame?
I bought a new basic SRAM cassette for my new rear wheel and it felt very heavy so wondering whether carbon components would make a significant difference?
Thanks
ps. What's the address for bridgtown cycles and do I need an appointment?
0
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There were a lot of replies, I decided that carbon was the way to go for the frame anyway.
Have a look at the thread.
It would appear that carbon frame is the way to go. better start saving. What's everyone's favourite frame? I know Cervelo probably what else do people like in terms of tri frames? Kuota, QR, Argon, Felt, Orbea? Any preferences?
Where else is it best to save weight? Is a carbon Dura-ace or FSA Crankset a good idea (i guess my current set weighs at least a kg maybe 1.5) or a carbon cassette?
Cheers
Hope that helps at all
My opinion (everyone has one) in order of return on investment:
1) fit, comfort, aerodynamic position and power output - potentially free
2) good shoes, well adjusted cleats, good shorts
3) aero-bottle, practice optimal nutrition for your distance
4) tyres - light, minimise rolling resistance
5) practice the hop on off shoeless thing
5) effective training - potentially some coaching
6) look at choice of gearing, not necessarily the weight of the cassette/ rings
.
.
.
7) years coaching
8) bearings (cahnging to ceramic BB, ceramic wheel bearings are cheaper than a new frame/wheels)
9) wheels
10) powermeter
11) frame
Don't get me wrong, if I could afford it I'd get a proper bike. I just don't like spending money, haven't got it and know for a fact that I can get lots faster on the bike I have. It is not my limiter, I am. Probably the same for most of us.
Ade
Bike A may be lighter than bike B but its ultralightweight frame flexes therby reducing the amount of power available for forward motion and has wheels, crank, chain, cassette which are heavier than bike B therefore the rotational weight is greater. Bike B may have a slightly heavier frame which is stiffer allowing more power to be put down and transmision components that have less rotational mass.
There is then the question of whether a slighly heavier wheel is better than a lightweight one which may flex more, the heavier wheel also has the benefit of the 'flywheel' effect in helping to sustain forward motion but then is more difficult to crank up to speed after a decelearation. What is the rolling resistance of the tyres like?
I may be a bit heretic here but in the triathlon world we are bedazzled by the word 'carbon' as if it is the magic solution. A poorly designed and made carbon frame is no match for a half decent alloy frame and it is not beyond the stretch of the imagination to put together a carbon framed bike with poorly matched components that will get trounced by an alloy frame with the right mix.
The guy rides some normal looking old racing bike and then a week later a Scott Plasma.....with the Scott he manages a much much faster time...a difference that one could only make up with months/years of training......or with considerably rediced beer belly...
the old bike looks old, but still reasonable. I'm not sure how the Scott managed to be so much faster.
Any comments?
that's my I'm saving my pennies!